BAJA2000

TRIP TO MEXICO -- TO SEE THE BAJA 2000 RACE

Liz kept a daily log based on info via phone calls & e-mail messages.

Jim added "the rest of the story" once he, Dave & Shelley were back home.

Liz: Nov. 3: Deputy Dog, Possum & Shelah left from Clayton, GA at DAYLIGHT. Made it to Monroe, LA - 600+ miles - their first day with mostly good weather! Ended the day with some rain

Jim: I had a power commander installed, just before we left. Turned out that I was getting 125 miles to the tank. Had it removed @ the Monroe H-D -- back to 190 miles per tank. Better. We rode the last few miles to Monroe in the dark and the rain at 80mph. PHEW!!!!

Liz: Nov 4: Was misty, with a bit of rain Saturday morning, but shed our rain gear after lunch. Met a young fellow, Caleb Shultz from New England, and traveled with him half the day. Rode on into Abilene, TX (at about the 1100 mile mark now). Temps at 60 degrees.

Jim: Was a nice day's ride. Nothing out of the ordinary, but enjoyable.

Liz: Nov. 5: Had a good ride on Sunday with 4500-5000 ft. elevations in the high plains. Looked just like the territory in "High Plains Drifter". Cool; temps ranged from42-55 degrees. Only made about 500 miles. Made an early stop today... in El Paso, TX, as the clutch cable broke on Jim's new bike. Stayed the night next to Barnett's Harley-Davidson, the world's biggest H-D dealership. Plan to have repairs done first thing in the morning. Aren't warranties grand?! Having fun despite the trouble.

Jim: We checked out the night life in Juarez Sunday night, but things were a little slow.

San Simon, barely into Arizona. Continued -- in the rain -- toward Wilcox to find a place for the night. The final ride of the evening (NIGHT) consisted of 20 miles of driving, horizontal rain w/high winds + 15 miles of an unexpected blinding "thunder" snow

(and ice on Jim's glasses). Want some cheese with that whine? Settling in, snow was 2+" and falling! The bikes and helmets in the parking lot are white. Shelley's tracking in the snow as he unloads his gear. Warm room; hot showers! Check the weather channel, Dave???

with only 2500 miles on it.) Cost $116.84 cash. Better read the fine print on those Harley warranties!!!!!! Needless to say, I was mad as hell. Left El Paso around 1:00PM. The afternoon ride was miserable; cold and wet -- then the snow started. Blizzard conditions; a real whiteout. Slick and treacherous. Moved at 15MPH along I-20 with trucks blowing by at 70MPH. Scared the hell out of me. When we finally arrived at a motel, with 2 1/2" of wet snow on my windshield and helmet. Could have kissed that Indain woman on the lips -- never so glad to see a fleabag motel in my life

Liz: Nov. 7: Started off on Election Day in the snow and then found the sun. Detoured toward Tombstone, AZ for a break at Big Nose Kate's Saloon for a couple of beers and the "best tacos ever". Back on the route just after lunch and ran into snow. Turned to rain, but as they neared Tucson, it became a full-fledged snow storm with a mixture of hail. Later, it turned to rain storms with hail. Had 30 degree temps most of the day. Found sun again at the I-8 turn off where the temps got up to 60 degrees! WHEW! Three tired puppies stopped for the night in Gila Bend, AZ.

Jim: Big Nose Kate's was GREAT!!!! Stopped by the Boot Hill Cemetery. Strange weather.

Liz: Nov. 8: Clear skies Wednesday morning. Stopped in Yuma (down in the valley) to visit the Territorial Prison. Temps up and down all day -- 32 degrees to start, 82 degrees in the valley, and back down to 58 degrees going back up the mountain toward San Diego. Met up with Mike & Morris Penland in El Cajon Will be there 'til Friday. Relaxing a bit tonight and checking the progress of the 2000 Election. Enjoying this, so far wild and crazy, trip (2300+ miles). Tomorrow's the day to wash clothes and rest.

Jim: Nov. 10: Took half the day to get insurance and our tourist cards for Mexico. Made it to Ensenada that evening and got a room at The Joker Motel, Restaurant, and Bar. Highly recommended. Great food (the best Mexican food I've ever eaten). Met some guys from Locos Mocos down to watch the race. Kept running into them at different places downtown. ANTHONY'S WHOREHOUSE is a must -- fun, fun, fun. The Federales, riding around in pickups with automatic rifles and machine guns, were a bit off putting, though.

Nov.11: Went back downtown to see the tech. inspection of the racers, bikes, buggies, four wheelers and trucks. Got a t-shirt and some more tacos. Left and headed downcourse to view the race. We rode too far, so the racers passed us after dark and we missed most of it. Met up with Penland at our camp spot in the desert. Had a campfire made from dead cactus, dried cow patties and fence posts -- never thought I would wind up picking up shit.

Nov. 12: Headed down Baja. Scenery was widely varied, from desert and cactus to mountain and ocean views. Twisty roads; great riding. The roads there have no shoulder with an immediate drop off of 8" to 4 feet. Got to be careful where you pull off!!!

Nov. 13: More tacos ---- breakfast, lunch, and supper. By now we have broken every rule in the Mexico Tourist "Don't Do" Book.

Liz: Nov. 14: GOT MAIL! Jim sent an e-mail tonight from La Paz, Mexico. They're having a great time and the scenery (cactus, cactus, cactus) is amazing! He, Dave & Shelley will catch the ferry tomorrow to the mainland of Old Mexico. [A message was left in the GUESTBOOK by Steve Buckelew of team LocosMocos. http://www.locosmocos.com/

Liz: Nov. 15: Been advised to find a cabin while on the ferry from La Paz to Mazatlan. The 200+ mile journey, which crosses the widest part of the Gulf of California, will take about 18 hours. The cabins were small, but the bunks were great and the showers had hot water.

Liz: Nov. 16 & 17: Heading back. Traveling through Mexico's heartland. Going to cover various terrains with extreme elevations before crossing back over the border into the USA. Should be quite a ride.

Jim: Nov. 16: Mazatlan was hot, but we were soon on our way to the Sierra Madre Mountains and the Devil's Backbone. As we started up, the temps cooled down and the roads became twisty. The mountains in the distance looked impossibly high and were wreathed in clouds. As we increased our elevation, we began to run in clouds and mist. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking. Although our vision was limited by the mist, what we could see was marvelous. At one point, the road had no shoulders. By that, I mean the drop off on both sides was sheer and as far down as I could see - with no guard rails. So... your first mistake is your last. We badly underestimated the time it would take to cross, so we wound up riding in the rain and the dark (not something I would recommend). Finally got to Durango and found a place to stay -- a whoretel. Neatest place you've ever seen! Had a walled courtyard with two car garages complete with electric doors (so you and your "date" could pull in , close the door and never be seen). The rooms that opened off the garage were plush and complete with a king-sized bed, cable tv(free dirty movies), the works, all for $22.00.

Nov.17: High plains riding at 6000- 8000 feet. No desert here; pine forest. Cool comfortable riding. Stopped in Saltillo for the night. Cold and raining. Then, Shelley woke up at 1:30AM and decided he'd had enough sleep and that we should move on. Thats the last time I ever listen to him. Still cold and raining. Rode all night (the one thing all the Mexico guide books tell you not to do) to the border.

Liz: Nov. 18: BACK IN THE USA... Got calls home this afternoon from McAllen, TZ. The trip through Mexico on Rt. 40 from Mazatlan to Durango (which crosses the Sierra Madres and is often referred to as the "Devil's Backbone") was quite curvy and COLD with elevations as haigh as 10,300 feet. "TRD", that's TIRED. of tacos!! Caught up with the rain and 40 degree temps in Texas. Jim & Shelley stopped in McAllen, while Dave drove ahead toward Corpus Christi to visit friends. They hope to meet up tomorrow morning to continue the ride back together.

Jim: Made our manners with the Mexican officials and crossed the bridge to the USA. Never thought I would be so glad to see that border line painted across the bridge. Thank you, Lord, that I'm back in the US (and once again have full coverage insurance).

Liz: Nov 19: Jim & Shelley called at lunch from Refugio, TX. They're still on the road. Dave's ahead of them -- he's aiming for New Orleans tonight. They all have clear roads for now... following the rain. High temps are low and are expected to stay in the 30's, 40's and 50's for the next few days. Travel will continue to be cold. Jim called this evening from Vinton, LA. He & Shelley have stopped there for the night. (Trip Maker puts them 833 miles from home - 'bout two more days.)

Liz: Nov. 20: Dave had a 550 mile run on this beautiful, cool Monday. He got home safely at about 5:00 this afternoom. His bike is SO dirty, said it looked like he'd been IN the Baja 2000! Jim and Shelley stopped in Evergreen, AL tonight, about 70 miles south of Montgomery. There's a KFC in sight and they are headed there for supper. Temps down to 28 degrees in L.A.(Lower Alabama) tonight. Will get on the road by 9:00 in the morning and have a full day's ride. Tuesday will be a cold day, too, with a high of only 40 degrees in Atlanta. Expect them home by dark.

Liz: Nov. 21: Jim and Shelley are home! Jim drove in at about 3:30PM, earlier than expected, wearing more clothes than were still packed, A hot shower sure felt nice! Glad to be back. (5470.2 MILES TOTAL)

Jim: Had to shake the ice out of my drawers when I got here. Really glad to be home.

Many a good campfire story yet to be told... great trip!